Table legs are a simple piece of furniture that you may not think about until they break or stop working correctly. It’s essential to know the making process of curved legs because if your leg hurts, it will be one less thing for you to worry about and can save you money in the long run. Curved Table Legs are also better for other furniture pieces such as couches and chairs since they provide more support. This article will show you how to make curved table legs with some relatively inexpensive tools!
Stepwise Guide on How to Make Curved Table Legs:
1. Find the radius of your table leg, or if you are cutting it yourself, measure the diameter of the desired circle. Add 1 1/2″ to this number.
2. Cut a length of PVC tubing to this measurement plus 3 inches – 6 inches (for additional strength).
3. Drill holes along the top and bottom edges near one end of the tube using a slightly larger drill than your flange screws. Be sure there is an equal number of holes on either edge. The hole should be just large enough to fit over your screw without too much play – you don’t want it moving around once everything is tightened down!
4. While wearing safety glasses, use a metal file to enlarge each of the holes in the tubing. Be sure to file both sides of each hole evenly so that your flanges will lie flat against the surface.
5. Drill out a 3/8″ hole through one end cap that is twice the diameter of your threaded rod or bolts, for this is where it will be screwed into. Make two of these end caps with matching holes on opposite ends of the tube if your table legs are curved in opposite directions (one clockwise, one counterclockwise). If they are going in the same direction, you only need to make one end cap – place it on whichever hole you choose at this time, but remember which one is which! Besides looking better, it is essential to know if they are mirror images or not when you install them.
6. Using the 1 1/2″ flange screws and end caps, attach one side of your table leg to a 3/4″ PVC coupling. Use several small washers between the coupling and portion to ensure there is no gap between the two when installed. The screw head should be flush with the surface of the coupling so that it will lie flat against your tabletop when installed.
7. Repeat steps 4-6 on the opposite end, but this time use 2-3 washers in between to ensure that there isn’t too much pressure put on the tubing when attached (you don’t want it cracking!).
8. Measure from where each flange meets at one end straight across to the corresponding flange at the other end. Subtract 1/2″ from this measurement, and cut equal lengths of PVC tubing for each leg.
9. Drill holes for your threaded rod or bolts using a drill bit that is slightly smaller than the diameter of your chosen bolt but no less than 1/4″. Be sure there is an equal number of holes on either edge so that it will be evenly supported across your tabletop! Drill two rows of holes inside each tube (one directly behind the first) to ensure that they overlap sufficiently. Ensure that the second row of holes is centered between those in the first row. This provides maximum support – if you don’t do this, you run a high risk of splitting your tubing when sliding your tabletop onto the bolts.
10. Slide one end cap over one end of each tube, ensuring that the holes are in line with each other for both boxes. Using washers in between to spread the pressure if necessary, attach the caps to both ends using 1/4″ flange screws and locknuts. Tighten them down carefully so as not to strip or crack any of your tubing threads!
11. Now you’re ready to slide on your tabletop! Mark two spots on opposite corners roughly 6″ up from either side of where it will sit when centered, then drill pilot holes through all layers at these locations. If there isn’t much clearance behind where your flanges meet (if you did step 9 correctly, there shouldn’t be), you can drill two holes, one on either side of the tubing, to use as pilot holes for your screws.
12. Now comes the fun part – lift your tabletop (it’ll be too heavy to slide over the bolts once it’s installed!) and screw in four 1/4″ flange screws into each pilot hole. If your pilot holes are too small, using 1/4″ flanges will split the wood around them quite quickly.
Hence, I recommend drilling slightly larger diameter pilot holes if possible! You should use roughly half an inch of thread behind each bolt so that it protrudes out evenly all around when tightened down. If you have a slightly rough surface that your tabletop will sit on, put some felt or rubber washers between the top of it and the underside of your tabletop to prevent any scratching.
Precautions While Making a Curved Table Legs
A table leg made from a curved piece of wood will have to be supported with a brace inside the body of the leg. Without this support, the weight of the tabletop will cause the leg to sag in the middle, warp, and twist. To maintain its strength and ability to hold heavy loads, this internal brace must be firm but not overly bulky or restrictive when fitting it into place.
The best brace is a triangle-shaped block of woodcut in half diagonally along its length. This type of brace provides excellent support while taking up very little space in the leg itself.
In addition to installing interior braces when necessary, pay close attention to the leg’s fit into its mating joint. Square-cut ends will need a little sanding before inserting, but these surfaces must be flat and smooth. If there is any warping or twisting in the leg itself, this imbalance will cause problems as it goes into place inside the joint.
I hope you have obtained all the necessary information regarding how to make curved table legs. Ensure all the adequate precautions. Thank you and have a nice day!